Quote from Spils :

Im lost i see the section but then how do i get the stock F9 control which brings up tire info to be assigned to being red button one instead of doing it in the profiler.. You say the alt/ctrl section ??

can you post a screen shot setup of how you say to do it im sure i can get what you mean froma simple screen shot

Quote from LFS_Adam :

Ok, you're right! Just tried it. But it still could be implemented for the
position list as well. Because if i watch a replay and e. g. want to switch
between 1st and 2nd, i just would have to click on the 1st or 2nd name
in the position list. In the player list i would have to "search" always for
the name and normally i also don't have/use the player list while watching
replays. Ok, it's really a very unimportant "feature", but i miss it sometimes.
Maybe i'm not the only one.

Yes, but how would you be able to type to cretain person in the list then?

Quote from Trader2005 :

Thanks for stating the obvious. Top speed fluctuates instead of reaching its max with the speed governor (intake restriction) for variable differential settings.

Intake restrictions restrict the amount of air coming into the engine thus reducing the power of the engine, not restricting it's top speed by electronics

Forget about Profiler, no need for that crap at all. Just go to options in LFS, go to Alt/Ctrl + f1 - f12 section and map at any of the buttons commands like "/press F10" etc. and than map wheel buttons to them, thats all.

Can be done via scripts too, but that way is easier imo.

Well, I've just did what Tony said. There were 3 connections comming from the circuit. 2 were coming to the button's sensors. Other was going to the wheelbase itself. I unplugged and replugged them all, and tbh I think they were connected strong from begining. I plugged them in properly and problems seem to gone. After half an hour of driving no problems appeared

Probably constant shakes and rotations on big angles unplugged them, thats all I can think of

Anyway, thanks for replies

Quote from BlakjeKaas :

You could try to bring it back to the shop/Logitech without the pedals.
Logitech mostly asks to cut the wires of the wheel and send them if you get a replacement unit (not sure).

If that doesn't work, read the following posts from other people who DO know what to do.

Quote from [RF]-art555 :

Now before you advise returning the wheel to Logitech, its not an option as the haven't got official support in UA, and my wheel is out of warranty anyway (from the shop) because of pedal mod

Thanks anyway.

@ Tony: I'm about to do that, just had a race on CTRA and it let me down right when I needed it!

Hello everyone,
I've spent quite a bit time searching, but haven't found an answer to my problem.

I have my G25 for about 4-5 months and had no problems with it until now. Recently, my left paddle on the wheel started to malfunction. Sometimes it works normally, but after some time it might not respond, but if the wheel is turned to the right for about 120* it starts to respond normally, but after a while the problem repeats. The paddle is not a big deal as I have never really used them and I'm only using it as a Handbrake, shifting is done through the Shifter unit, so I wasn't taking it really serious for some time.

Unfortunatly, yesterday, the same problems started to happen with the left red button on the wheel, which I use often as it mapped to "look left", which is higly important when racing for me.

Now before you advise returning the wheel to Logitech, its not an option as the haven't got official support in UA, and my wheel is out of warranty anyway (from the shop) because of pedal mod

Since the problem can be solved for a short period of time by rotating the wheel to the right, that makes me thinking it's a bad connection somewhere. If anyone had similiar problem and knows what wires/circuits are responsible for this, please help. Any other ideas are apretiated.

Thanks beforehand,

Art.

also instead of bumping old threads, they'll start new ones with the same topics...
-1

Aero modelling is quite basic in LFS atm, its awaiting for major improvements in future patches

Quote from J@tko :

You can.

Go into Profiler, click edit, assignments then keystrokes, then new. Click your paddle, and assign it to that paddle and to the look key (I think this will work :S)

Would be a lot easier to do through LFS scripts IMO

Quote from Jarulf :

I just tend to use English in all the software i use.

Same
Just doesn't feel right in Russian, anyway, almoust all good setup/driving/etc. guides are in English and I don't have problems with it so why not?

Quote from d3boy2002 :

well, the XRR actually seems to stall easier, as opposed to the ferrari-like, H shifter GT car (sorry i forgot the name). I just wish cars were easier to stall, thats all .

Thats because FZR (the car you're talking about) is 3,6 NA engined car, which has quite a bit torque from the low revs, while XRR has 2.0l turbocharged engine that massively relies on turbo pressure, thus, easy to stall

Quote from sam93 :

Alright then mate, that car is a piece of shite.

How dare you to call the masterpiece of USSR's automobile industry a shit?!:rolleyes:

It is, especially on race cars, (FZR for example), where being consistant and fast through gearchangs is hard. On roadcars, its not that of diffirence.
I don't really see the point of having an H-shifter and only using it in seq mode though...

Personally I use the corresponding shifting method the car has

Quote from xaotik :

Macro = program sends button or axis command to LFS
Result = bar will move regardless.
You lost.
Sorry.

Probably cause of low packets value of server, the macro works faster than packets allow others to notice it, AC is 100ms, while macro can be as fast as 50ms afaik

The easiest way to fix this problem, IMO, is just to remove Clutch button rate, and make it a static value a user cannot alter

Quote from ssm :

only having the throttle cutoff traction control keeping them in line.

TC i banned from this season and on

What settings do you have in Profiler?

My blind guess would be that you have center spring enabled at high value

:ices_rofl

Just unscrew the stick and put a gear knob there, thats all

Quote from sachamun :

Hi spacedskunk...
I do the same with my g25, but find it a pain to leave lfs and adjust the steering lock in profiler...do you know of a quick way to do it? I'm thinking of just making a list of each car and it's actual degree of steering lock so I can adjust it quickly in profiler. Do you happen to know where to get the exact steering rotation specs for each car?

Sachamun

What he's talking about, is just setting LFS and profiler to 720* and turn compensation to 1. After that LFS will only use the lock of the given car, meaning while the wheel is still set to 720* but you are in a GTR car which has 540*, LFS will only use 540* of lock of yor wheel, rotating it further will not be readed. Its a simple solution, but the downside is that you will lose FFB soft stops.

If its a FFB Joystick, then yes, still can work with regular joysticks but you'll have to hold it in the position otherwise

I've met the same problems. For me, it is caused by ingame AA settings, for some odd reasons it cuts the framerate drammatically, while, as far as I know, drivers forced AA doesn't

Quote from obsolum :

I bought a Microsoft Lifecam VX-3000, but the VX-1000 works just as well and costs a lot less so you might want to look for that one.

I've got VX-1000 one, works just fine

The whole point of FreeTrack is using a web cam Just make sure it's not a crappy one, the list of supported cams is on their site

It puts you back on the track in SP only, in MP it sends you to spectate, so no advantage tbh